Yamakyu

When the craving for an old-fashioned bowl of chūka soba—Chinese-style ramen—strikes, the simple noodle dishes of a neighbourhood Chinese restaurant can come to mind. At 山久 in Shishibone, Edogawa City, the ramen pairs a clear soy-sauce broth with straight noodles. It is an unadorned bowl, with a gentle finish that reviewers say makes you want another sip. Fried rice, known for its measured seasoning and moist texture, is a familiar pairing, as are the curries, including katsu curry. Reviews often mention choosing one of these alongside the noodles.

The noodle selection goes well beyond soy sauce. There is salt-seasoned tanmen and gomoku noodles with vegetables, as well as miso ramen and a butter-rich bowl. The choices also include hearty hot noodles in a thickened sauce, such as Cantonese-style noodles, meat soba and shrimp soba. The yakisoba range is just as varied: fragrant noodles come with sauce, meat sauce or salt seasoning, or in thickened-sauce and kata-yaki styles. There are plenty of ways to choose a noodle dish to suit the day.

Garlic-forward dumplings with a generous filling and mapo tofu round out the sides, alongside beer and other alcoholic drinks. The lineup suits a quick lunch as well as an easygoing evening meal. The dining room is modest in size, with mostly table seating, and has a relaxed feel that works for dining alone or an everyday lunch. Payment is cash only, so it is worth having coins or banknotes ready when you visit.